Last weekend I had the pleasure of attending the "Simplesmente Vinhos" wine fair in Porto. Accompanied by Thomas Vetter from Sardinenbar.berlin and our mutual friend Andrej, who captured wonderful snapshots with his camera, I immersed myself in the diverse world of Portuguese wines.
Simplesmente Vinho: The Fair for Authentic Wines
"Simplesmente Vinho" (simply wine) is one of the most important natural wine fairs in Portugal and has established itself as a major platform for winemakers who produce authentic wines with minimal intervention. The event takes place annually in Porto and brings together small, independent producers who present their artisan-made wines.
Unlike major commercial wine fairs, the philosophy of natural winemaking takes center stage here: organically or biodynamically grown grapes, spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts, minimal use of sulfites, and no artificial additives. The intimate atmosphere allows for direct contact with the winemakers and an authentic insight into their work and vision.
This year, the fair was held in a historic building in the heart of Porto – the perfect setting to experience the diversity and quality of Portuguese natural wines and to forge connections with the passionate people behind these unique wines.
Vinhos Desviso: A Promising New Partner
Our first visit led us to Vinhos Desviso, a winery with which we will soon be working. This small, family-run project is located about 50 minutes north of Lisbon and is run by Scott and Marta. Their focus is on fresh, elegant wines with minimal intervention, reflecting their personal experiences and their shared journey.
Although Vinhos Desviso only brought in its first harvest in 2022, its wines already impress with their character and quality. The grapes are exclusively hand-picked and carefully selected. In the cellar, they rely on natural fermentation without fining or filtering – always with great respect for the land and its produce. This creates an authentic expression of terroir and philosophy in each of their wines.
From Barrel to Barrel: Visit with Esteemed Winemakers
After Vinhos Desviso, our path led us to other esteemed partners: We tasted directly from the barrel at Constantino Ramos, visited Luis Lopes from Moreish and Tiago Sampaio from Uívo. Between these stops, we also discovered some promising new wineries – I will report on this in a separate blog post.
The Fair and Beyond
Friday morning from 10 am to 2 pm was reserved exclusively for trade visitors – an ideal opportunity for intensive conversations and focused tasting. When the fair then opened to the public, it became significantly more crowded and lively.
After our visit to the fair, we strengthened ourselves with lunch at the Mercado do Bolhão, before enjoying a coffee at the legendary Café Majestic. Afterwards, we went to the Pálacio da Bolsa to meet Oscar Quevedo at the "Essência do Vinho" wine fair. With great pride, we could witness Quevedo being awarded "Best Port Wine Producer 2024" there – an extraordinary success and a special moment for us as exclusive Berlin importers of his outstanding port wines. This award confirms once again the exceptional quality of his products and our right decision to bring his wines to Berlin.
Exploring Porto and a Culinary Conclusion
We used the later afternoon for a little city stroll: We crossed the famous Ponte Luís I on foot and walked down to Vila Nova de Gaia, where we enjoyed a refreshing Super Bock on a terrace. Although the fatigue after the eventful day was noticeable, one more highlight awaited us: dinner at Márcio Lopes, from whom we already import various Vinho Verde, Douro wines, and Pet-Nats.
Day 2: New Discoveries and Highlights
After a classic Portuguese breakfast with Galão, Sumo de Laranja, and Tosta Mista, we stood at the gates of the fair again at 10 am on Saturday, ready for more exciting discoveries.
RPM Wines & Spirits: Our New Partner with Exceptional Natural Wines
Our first stop on the second day was RPM Wines & Spirits – and I must admit, this was my personal highlight of the entire fair. I can announce with great joy that we have gained RPM as a new partner for our portfolio! The project is a fascinating collaboration between Ricardo Moreira, José Roseira, and Daniel Pires. They produce five wines and one Pet-Nat – all natural wines of impressive quality, which we will soon offer in Berlin.
RPM has dedicated itself to reviving the wine traditions in an old Quinta in the lower Tâmega, about ten kilometers from the Douro, in the transition zone between the Vinho Verde and Douro wine regions. On a south-facing slope, protected from the north winds, the vines benefit from a mineral-rich granite soil, fed by the Verín-Chaves-Vidago hydrothermal system.
The over 60-year-old vines in the higher elevations include various indigenous grape varieties, among which Arinto dominates. The grapes are traditionally stomped by foot and macerated in 250-year-old granite lagares. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks with minimal intervention – always with the aim of preserving the unique character of the grapes and the terroir.
Quinta da Livração, where the grapes for RPM are grown, has been in the family ownership of José Roseira since 1935. Of the total eleven hectares, four are dedicated to viticulture, complemented by three hectares of forest and various small organic crops. José Roseira, a writer by profession and closely connected to contemporary art, met winemaker Ricardo Moreira through Daniel Pires (Head of the Maus Hábitos Cultural Intervention Space). After the winery's last traditional wine production in 2013, they began restoring the vineyards to produce wines that would delight in both their first and eleventh years.
Gardunha Sul: Tradition Meets Innovation – Another New Addition
With equal enthusiasm, I am pleased to announce Gardunha Sul as the second new addition to our portfolio! This remarkable project was officially launched in 2021 by André Duque Lourenço. As a classically trained enologist with many years of experience in the conventional wine industry, he decided to return to his roots and produce uncomplicated, authentic wines without masks or tricks. His distinctive creations will soon find their way to Berlin and enrich our selection of Portuguese natural wines.
For his project, he chose the Beira Interior region, more precisely Cova da Beira in the heart of Beira Baixa – an area distinguished by diverse fruit farming, for which he had always held a special passion. The grandeur of the surrounding mountains seems to protect and enhance his dream.
Gardunha Sul has dedicated itself to a special mission: to rediscover and save the old vineyards threatened by rural exodus. These are still being tended by the few remaining older people and hold ancient secrets and strong characters. The project works with local farmers to reverse the abandonment of cultivated areas and secure high-quality grapes – at fair prices that honor the work and commitment of these people.
After these impressive tastings, our visit to the fair was complete, and we set off on foot to Matosinhos to let our wine adventure in Porto come to an end.
An intense but incredibly enriching weekend that impressively demonstrated the diversity and quality of Portuguese natural wines and sent us back to Berlin with valuable contacts and impressions.
