Everything was better in the old days! It's a good thing this statement isn't always true... especially when it comes to Vinho Verde. In the past, it was known as a lemonade-like wine with barely 10% alcohol and plenty of carbonation. Fortunately, things are different today, as the new generation of winemakers aspires to compete with the "crème de la crème" of the globalized wine world... and they succeed!
On our first vacation in Madeira, my wife and I discovered Sonía Vaz Osorío's 2009 Vinho Verde while having dinner by chance at a small fish restaurant. The fish was, of course, absolutely delicious, but we were especially taken with the wine. We enjoyed it so much that from then on, we went there almost every day to enjoy another bottle of this wonderfully refreshing wine...
The fish restaurant was so secluded...
Our first bottle of Vinho Verde Quinta de Teamonde
Back in Berlin, I was determined to add the wine to our range and acquired a pallet of the 2009 vintage to offer as a special during the asparagus season. Initially, it wasn't easy to convince our customers to buy a Portuguese wine from a Frenchman, of all people. And a Vinho Verde at that (see clichés above)! However, this exotic wine quickly became a real bestseller. Many customers bought it by the case.
When the palette sold out, I decided against reordering immediately. But months later, many customers were still asking for it...
Stockfish dries in the sun on Madeira
Three years later, we were back in Madeira, this time with the whole family, as "Maître Phiippe & filles," so to speak. Naturally, we made a pilgrimage to the little fish restaurant this time as well. And lo and behold, they still had the Vinho Verde from Quinta de Teamonde on the menu, and once again we were thrilled. We had to get that wine again! The only problem was: the current vintage had long since sold out! Of course, we didn't let that discourage us; after all, we now had a goal.
Sonia's husband Alexandro, Maître Philippe, Philippe's wife Evelyne, Sonia Vaz Osorío
And it worked! We now know winemaker Sonia Vaz-Osorío personally and have already visited her winery. The term "winery" is a gross exaggeration, however, as Sonia cultivates just 2 hectares, which she affectionately refers to as her bonsai vineyard. If that doesn't make sense to you, 2 hectares is just enough to produce 10,000 bottles annually. And that's only if the weather cooperates. Quinta de Teamonde is located in the Vale de Cambra (fertile valley) at the southern tip of the Norte region in the north of the country, between the Douro and Minho rivers. About 25% of Portuguese wines come from this very humid, often rainy region.
At the quinta, Sonía does everything herself because she's a control freak, but in a positive sense: She simply wants to be 100% sure that everything runs exactly as she envisions. She gained her oenological knowledge, among other things, through studying oenology with the "Pope of White Wines," Professor Denis Dubourdieu, in Bordeaux.
The new Vinho Verde 2013
"And how is the wine?" you ask? We chose the 2013 vintage because it is much more harmonious than the 2014 vintage. It is made from three native grape varieties: 65% Loureiro, 20% Arinto, and 15% Trajadura, and has an alcohol content of 12%.
It is crisp and fresh, pure and transparent with beautiful green reflections. On the nose, it displays floral and fruity notes, such as passionflower and apricot, and delights in the mouth with its finely integrated acidity and wonderful freshness. The finish is long and mineral. A very harmonious, round, and beautifully refreshing summer wine.
It is best enjoyed very well chilled (no warmer than 10°C), e.g. with asparagus and other fresh spring dishes.
The bottle for 7.95€, the carton of 6 for 45€
