France and Portugal enjoy close ties, and there are several parallels: among other things, wine and viticulture play an important role in both countries. Not only for the identity of their residents, but also for their economy and tourism.
Furthermore, Paris is home to the largest community of Portuguese exiles in all of Europe. Only the number of Portuguese exiles in Brazil is naturally and proportionally larger.
No wonder, then, that we French people in Berlin are so in love with Portugal and its products (fish, wine, olive oil, etc.). For anyone who's ever wondered about this orientation, here's the explanation :)
Two winemakers we know personally and value both for their exceptional wines and as good friends are Antonio Madeira and Tiago Teles . Both are in their early to mid-thirties and belong to the "French-Portuguese" group, as they were partly born in France, speak fluent French, and live and work partly in France and partly in Portugal. Accordingly, they are influenced by both cultures and combine them within themselves. Their wines are a beautiful expression of this connection between two worlds.
Antonio Madeira lives most of his time in Paris, but represents the Dão wine region, which is far less well known here than other legendary regions such as the Alentejo or the Douro. For a long time, no one here really cared about the region's heritage: many of the old grape varieties were neglected and disappeared, as did the vineyard managers, who died or moved away and abandoned their vineyards. And then Antonio came along, who wanted to stop this gradual process and produce wines again like the old ones he knew. The vines in his vineyards at the foot of the Serra da Estrela are on average 50 years old, some even much older. The best prerequisites for wines with excellent ageing potential, which are characterized by a special freshness, spiciness and minerality - a reflection of their terroir. Antonio has become a true celebrity and reference for this type of wine. What initially seemed cumbersome and difficult is now in high demand and has found enthusiastic fans beyond the borders of Portugal and France. This includes us and many of our customers.
We first met this visionary and progressive winemaker very early on, over two years ago. In 2015, he also participated in our in-house trade fair, the "Festa Portuguesa." His red wine, "Vinhas Velhas 2013," has been part of our regular range ever since.
It is made from 75-year-old vines grown at approximately 500 meters above sea level on very granitic soil. It is a blend of 75% Baga, Jaen, and Tinta Amarela. The remaining 25% is made up of wines from more than 20 almost forgotten grape varieties. To name just a few: Marufo, Tinta Pinheira, Negro Mouro, Tinta Carvalha, Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, and Alicante Bouschet. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand, and the yield is only 20 hectoliters per hectare, which is very low.
The wine demonstrates the character and elegance of its origins and is reminiscent of Burgundies that easily cost twice as much. It has a beautiful pale robe and a complex, spicy-resinous yet fruity nose reminiscent of pine and slightly fermented compote of red fruits such as berries and cherries.
In the mouth, it has a lot of power and a beautiful balance with clear aromas and present but not aggressive tannins. The finish is long and mineral.
Ideally, the Vinhas Velhas should be given some time to breathe. Then it makes a wonderful accompaniment to food, but it's also a delight to drink on its own.
Antonio's "colleague," Tiago Teles , wrote about wine for a long time before fulfilling his dream of making his own wine. He grew up in the Aveiro area, but was born to Portuguese parents in Paris. When Tiago was three years old, his parents returned to their homeland. However, he was drawn back to France, specifically to Toulouse, where he studied telecommunications. His "understanding of wine" is very French, and Tiago has many winemaker friends in France, especially in Beaujolais, Burgundy, and Tourraine. His style is similarly elegant, fruity, and light. In French, his wines would be called "vins de soif," or "thirst wines."
His wine, " Maria da Graça 2015," was not made from the Bairrada region's signature grape, the famous Baga grape, but from Alfrocheiro, another indigenous grape variety that thrives on limestone and clay soils. It is spontaneously fermented, aged in stainless steel tanks, and unfiltered. It is lively and fresh, the liquefied expression of its region. Soft and juicy, velvety and fruity with a pleasant mineral note, yet spicy at the same time. The predominant aromas are pepper and cherry. The tannins are gentle and give the wine volume without being overpowering. The overall impression is light yet full. While you can easily finish the bottle in one evening, it's still wonderful the next day. Slightly chilled, it's a great wine even in summer, one that doesn't need a meal but is also a pleasure to enjoy on its own.
