On the coast between Porto and the city of Coimbra—famous for its Hogwarts-like university—lies the Bairrada wine-growing region. Green and hilly, this Portuguese land has been cultivated for over 1,000 years.
The Bairrada is a sub-region of Beira, located quite low in the Atlantic Ocean and heavily influenced by the Atlantic. The Romans were already involved in viticulture south of Anadia, but when Coimbra rose to become the political center of the kingdom at the time, wine production in the Bairrada really took off.
The Bairrada – From disrepute to comeback
In the early 18th century, the complex, tannic red wines of Bairrada enjoyed great popularity and were shipped in large quantities to Vila Nova de Gaia , the famous city opposite Porto, directly at the mouth of the Douro River. From there, they were exported to Great Britain, as the British had (and still have) a fondness for port wine. Producers either blended it with their Bairrada wine or passed off their Bairrada entirely as port wine.
In 1756, the Portuguese government had had enough and put an end to the adulteration. The then Prime Minister of Portugal, the strongman Marquis de Pombal, implemented a geographical boundary to protect the port. To teach the local winegrowers a lesson, the vineyards of Bairrada in central-western Portugal were cleared. From then on, the land was to be used for grain production.
This drastic measure hit the region hard. The subsequent reconstruction of the Bairrada wine-growing culture took not just decades, but over two centuries. Even when the first Regiäos Demarcadas (RD) were founded and later, through EU accession, were granted quality status Denominação de Orgem Controlada (DOC) rose, the Bairrada region remained exempt.
In 1979, Bairrada was allowed to return from its wine exile and, thanks to the persistent efforts of its winegrowers, was granted RD status. The coveted DOC finally followed in 1990.
But the trauma runs deep. To this day, the long-established wine families remain sensitive to government interference. For this reason, Vinho Regional Beiras is more frequently produced in the region, which is subject to significantly fewer restrictions than DOC wines and allows winemakers more freedom.
The berry and its production
There are now around 20,000 hectares of vineyards in Bairrada, with one grape in particular having established itself: Baga , or Tinto Bairrada, dominates the vineyards of this Portuguese region with a strong 70 percent.
Literally translated, Baga means "berry." The grape variety produces small fruits with very thick skins, characterized by a high tannin content. No other appellation in Portugal is as strongly dominated by a single grape variety as the DOC Bairrada, which is dominated by the Baga grape.
It's a miracle that the capricious Baga grape, of all grapes, has prevailed after the phylloxera disaster. This grape absolutely dislikes moisture, and the Atlantic region, at least in the past, was very wet.
Anyone wanting to produce good wine here had to have strong nerves and hope for a dry autumn. Because it takes time for the grapes to reach the necessary phenolic ripeness, the harvest had to be postponed until late autumn.
Only a few winemakers in Bairrada had enough courage and confidence, and so for a long time they produced very harsh wines that were harvested too early and did not do the reputation of the Baga any favors.
The Baga grape has a lot of potential and is capable of producing full-bodied, aromatic wines with rich tannins and stable acidity.
Young Baga red wines have an intense aroma of wild berries, but are usually quite closed. Mature versions, on the other hand, are complex and full of structure. Only after 10 to 15 years do Baga wines develop the necessary maturity. Then they display very diverse aromas of morello cherries, prunes, tar, eucalyptus, and pine.
Atlantic, soil and climate change
Red DOC wines from Bairrada may be blended with other wines, provided they contain a minimum of 70 percent of the Baga grape variety. The Touriga Nacional variety is the most commonly used for blending, but recently the French grape varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have also become popular, as they blend very harmoniously with the Baga grape due to their proximity to the Atlantic.
The soil of the coastal region is loamy and calcareous clay (barro = clay) with a gentle slope. The Vouga River in the north and the Mondego River in the south, as well as the Serra do Caramulo and Serra do Buçaco mountains in the east, form the natural boundaries of the Bairrada DOC.
Almost the entire Bairrada region was shaped by the Atlantic climate . But climate change is making itself felt: While in the past, periods without rainfall were very short, leaving winemakers struggling to bring their harvests through safely, rainfall has decreased significantly in recent years. This is also reflected in the exceptionally good vintages, which are now occurring more frequently than ever before.
The traditional production of Bairrada red wines requires no-stemming fermentation. This means the grapes are not removed from the stems but fermented in the wood.
This process produces very powerful and tannic red wines that require a certain amount of age before they are ready to drink. Unfortunately, the quality of the fruit is often lost, and the long aging process causes it to fade before it's even ready to drink.
This fact is now driving many winemakers to destem their grapes and thus produce wines that are drinkable much earlier and have a beautiful fruity aroma.
The best red wines from Bairrada are those of a more mature age, which are delicate and light, yet retain a beautiful complexity. These wines are among the best red wines in the country.
The Whites and the Sparkling
The white wines of Bairrada are made mainly from two grape varieties that dominate the wine regions: the Bical grape and the variety with the beautiful, sonorous name “ Maria Gomes ”, also known as Fern ã o Pires.
Bical wines are characterized by ripe yellow fruit, exude an aroma of tropical fruits and are even better enjoyed when well aged.
Maria Gomes wines are lighter and more flavorful, with beautiful fruit, but their quality doesn't compare to the excellent red wines. Most red wines from Bairrada are single-varietal, while the whites are more often blends.
A high proportion of the white grapes are processed into sparkling wines , which, while exquisite, fall short of DOC status. Nevertheless, Bairrada remains the leading region among sparkling wine producers in Portugal. The red Espumantes, in particular , enjoy particular attention and popularity, as the interplay of fruit, tannins, and acidity creates an interesting and versatile bouquet.
The largest wine producers in Bairrada are the six regional cooperatives: Alianga, Fonseca, Barrocäo, Messias, Säo Joäo, and Luis Pato. Sogrape is also based in Bairrada, and its most famous wine is arguably the Mateus Rose.
About the author
Inara Muradova is an SEO expert and corporate blogger. In addition to technical search engine optimization and SEO consulting, she actively supports companies with the conception and writing of professional blog posts.
