All experts agree: good wines from Portugal have long been among the world's best. This is partly due to the fact that Portugal is home to around 200 (if not more!) native grape varieties – a tremendous stroke of luck! A lot is happening, especially in the Douro Valley!
There's now talk of a veritable "Revolution on the Douro." Unlike just a short while ago, when only grapes for port wine were grown there, the new winemakers today are focusing on improving the quality of their own local wines. The new generation now at the helm, with whom we enjoy working, is between 30 and 40 years old and thinks very differently. The French vines that grew in many places were uprooted and replaced with native Portuguese vines. A perfect example is our bestseller from the Alentejo: the Alento wines from Luis Louro of the Adega do Monte Branco in Estremoz.
By purchasing his wines, we have already demonstrated a good instinct, because as wine experts, we play the role of scouts in a certain sense: we taste, reject, taste, discover... and only when we are truly convinced will you also receive the corresponding bottles from us.
A truly outstanding new discovery, with which we have recently expanded our slowly growing Portuguese wine program, are the wines of winemaker Rita Marques Ferreira from the Douro Valley. Rita's family has been growing wine in the upper Douro for several generations. Their vineyards cover a total of approximately 85 hectares, averaging 500 meters above sea level.
The vineyards are cultivated without the use of chemicals and in a very natural way. All work is still done by hand. Rita, who learned her craft in Bordeaux and then worked as a "flying winemaker" in New Zealand and South Africa, sells parts of her harvest to other wineries. She keeps only the best for her own wines, producing fine and elegant wines with plenty of freshness and minerality. Everything is well thought out, because Rita has a concept (hence the name: Conceito). Through this concept, Rita reflects the freshness, beauty, and balance of her land. She believes in it. And so do we, by the way.
Rita's concept: " The foundation of my work is our understanding of wine—how we think and make it—the respect and love for our region, our homeland, and the inspiration from regional history—our story. Since the 18th century, this wonderful landscape has been monopolized exclusively for the production of grapes for port wine, and the enormous potential of the Eastern Douro has only recently been truly recognized. Several factors converged: first, the global demand for port wine declined; second, the entire Douro region was opened up by railways and road construction. The third and probably most important factor is the change in thinking among the winemakers themselves, the "Douro Revolution," which promotes the production of very good red wines. This also allows for the perception of the region as a mosaic of many small terroirs, each with its own specific characteristics: for example, the vineyards are usually cultivated by hand, and each is characterized by a unique microclimate. We are only at the beginning of a long journey, but we are truly eager to get started, heart and soul. The best wine journalists haven't been wrong, often awarding scores of over 90 points. Many renowned winemakers from other countries have also already acquired vineyards in the area. There's an El Dorado, a gold rush vibe in the air that's contagious to us all."
I'd heard a lot about Rita – she had a reputation as a top winemaker (Winespektator regularly gave her 93/94 points...). However, I hadn't met her personally. To change that, my wife and I recently flew to Lisbon for a wine party. I wanted to finally meet her in person, introduce myself, and convince her to sell us her wines. Our friend and supplier Luis Louro made the contact. That certainly helped us win her over. And the fact that I speak Portuguese fairly well :)
And now to the wines:
Rita produces a beautiful range of wines. We chose the following six: the entry-level "Contraste" wines in red and white, the more refined "Conceito" wines, also in red and white, and two ports – a tawny and an LBV.
The Contraste Tinto 2012 is a deep dark red with beautiful violet reflections, painting heavy tears on the rim of the glass. Immediately upon opening, notes of cassis and blackberry emerge, which are later complemented by spicy notes (bay leaf and pepper). The more you drink, the more aromas emerge, and it quickly becomes clear that you're dealing with a true find. The Contraste Tinto 2012 impresses with its power, finesse, and elegance, all at a very fair price.
It goes very well with cheeses such as Epoisses, Brie, Taleggio, with salami and grilled meat and especially with fatty fish such as sardines, mackerel and tuna.
The Contraste tinto 2012 is made from the grapes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Sousão.
The vines at Quinta do Cabido and Quinta Chão do Pereiro grow on slate soil and are relatively old at around 40 years old.
The grapes ripened very slowly due to the very dry winter, spring, and fall this year, and no rain during the harvest. As a result, the harvest was very small, but the grapes were healthy and of absolutely top quality.
As is the case throughout most of the Douro region, the harvest is done by hand. The harvested grapes are transported in small 20 kg crates to prevent damage, then sorted by hand, destemmed, and gently pressed. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature over a period of several days. After several gentle pumping-overs, a one-week quiet final maceration follows. Malolactic fermentation takes place in tanks. This is followed by 18 months of aging – 70% in used French barriques and 30% in stainless steel tanks.
- Price: Bottle (75 cl) 9.95€, Carton (6 bottles) 55.00€
- Alcohol: 13.5% Vol.
- Acidity: 5.2 g/l
- pH: 3.63
- Residual sweetness: 0.3 g/l
- Rating: eParker: 90p, , Revista de vinhos: 16.5/20
The 2014 Contraste Branco opens on the nose with intense, tropical, almost exotic notes of lime and lychee, which continue on the palate. The wine exudes a freshness, minerality, and elegance one wouldn't expect from Southern Europe. A wine made for Riesling lovers.
It goes well with fish, seafood, sushi… but also with risotto or on its own as an aperitif.
The 2014 Contraste branco is made from Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Códega, and Arinto. The vines grow on a small granitic plateau located 600 meters above sea level, approximately 15 kilometers west of Foz Côa.
Winter and spring were very wet, followed by a dry but not too hot summer. During the harvest in mid-September, heavy rains occurred, forcing the harvest to be canceled. As a result, the harvest was unfortunately very small. However, the grapes that had already made it to the cellar were in perfect and healthy condition.
After harvesting, the grapes are immediately cooled and gently pneumatically pressed. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. This is followed by cold filtration, followed by a six-month aging process, 30% in new and used French barriques and 70% in stainless steel tanks, with regular "batônnages" until one month before bottling in March 2015.
- Price: Bottle (75 cl) 9.95€, Carton (6 bottles) 55.00€
- Alcohol: 13% vol.
- Acidity: 6.41 g/l
- pH: 3.02
- Residual sweetness: 0.8 g/l
- Rating: expected 92p at Parker
The Conceito Tinto 2012 is a very dark red, almost black, and immediately upon opening, aromas of Madagascar pepper, licorice, and wild blackberries greet the nose. It is a classic "Super Douro wine": elegant despite its full body, and refreshing. The aromas of the bouquet are also evident in the mouth, where you immediately notice the fine, ripe tannins. This wine is reminiscent of expensive Pomerol wines and has at least 10 years of potential.
It goes well with all game dishes and also with duck.
The Conceito Tinto 2012 is made from more than 20 different traditional Douro grapes (that's more than in Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe!), including Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Rufete, Sousão.
The vines grow on slate soil at Quinta do Cabido in a natural amphitheater facing south. At approximately 80 years old, the vines are very old. Their yield is low but of excellent quality.
Due to the very dry winter, spring, and summer, the berries ripened very slowly but perfectly. Fortunately, the weather cooperated during the harvest, so there were no losses.
The harvest is done manually. The grapes are transported in small 20 kg baskets and carefully sorted both on the vine and in the cellar. The grapes are then partially destemmed, pressed, and pumped into stainless steel tanks. Fermentation takes place at controlled temperatures with gentle pumping overs, followed by a final one-week rest period. Malolactic fermentation takes place in tanks.
The aging process lasts 20 months and takes place 50% in new French barriques and 50% in used 2-year-old French barriques.
- Price: Bottle (75 cl) 29.50€, Carton (6 bottles) 165.00€
- Alcohol: 14% vol.
- Acidity: 5.2 g/l
- pH: 3.54
- Residual sweetness: 0.6 g/l
- Rating: eParker: 93p, Revista de vinhos: 17.5/20
The 2013 Conceito Branco amazed us with its pronounced finesse and minerality. From the very first sip, we were reminded of great Chablis Grand Crus or even some Puligny-Montrachets. Yet it's also quite different, and its mountainous origins are clearly evident: it's as wild and untamed as a crystalline mountain stream. It has a very smooth texture and a very long finish. Also particularly special is its salty, mineral side, which has become increasingly apparent in recent vintages. Its natural acidity lends it lightness and elegance.
One of the best white wines I have ever tasted from Southern Europe – a wine with a lot of potential!
It goes well with fine fish and seafood such as pike-perch, sea bream, sea bream, crayfish, lobster, and scallops, as well as with risottos, veal, Bresse chicken, etc.
The Conceito Branco 2013 is obtained from around 10 different traditional Douro grapes, including Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Códega, Gouveio, Donzelinho Branco, Folgazão, Arinto.
The vineyards are located on extremely hard granite soils on a narrow, small plateau 600 meters above sea level in Freixo de Numão, 15 km west of Foz Côa. The vines are very old, many even dating back to before the phylloxera disaster.
While winter and spring were very rainy, temperatures suddenly rose sharply starting on June 21st and remained so until early September. Therefore, we had to hurry to harvest as much as possible, but all the grapes that reached the cellar were in very healthy condition.
The harvest is done manually, and the grapes are transported in small 20 kg baskets. They are immediately chilled and gently pneumatically pressed without destemming. Filtration is performed only by cold filtration, and fermentation takes place in French barriques at a controlled temperature with regular "batônnages" for up to one month before bottling in June 2014.
The aging process lasts 10 months and takes place in used barriques with regular “batônnages”.
- Price: Bottle (75 cl) 29.50€, Carton (6 bottles) 165.00€
- Alcohol: 13% vol.
- Acidity: 6.6 g/l
- pH: 3.02
- Residual sweetness: 1.1 g/l
- Rating: eParker: 94p, Revista de vinhos: 17.5/20
The 10-year-old Tawny Port exudes a fragrance that immediately recalls childhood: caramelized walnuts blend with cotton candy and dried fruits. Added to this are earthy notes, as well as aromas of trail mix and ripe figs, which blend perfectly in the palate. The subtle yet lingering sweetness on the finish makes this port a perfect accompaniment to cheese or rich desserts.
- Grape varieties: a mixture of traditional Douro grape varieties, including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca
- Alcohol content: 20% vol.
- Acidity: 3 g/l
- pH value: 3.5
- Residual sweetness: 99 g/l
- Region: Porto DO
- Vintage: Blend of different vintages
- Vinification: Traditional Port wine vinification, no destemming and foot pressing in traditional granite lagares. Pre-fermentation maceration for 2 days, followed by fermentation for 3 days. Addition of grape alcohol, brief maceration, and subsequent 10 years of barrel aging.
The Port LBV 2009 is violet to black in color, and the nose is captivating and exuberantly fruity. You can almost smell overripe wild blackberries and fine black pepper (like Kappad). This is accompanied by a hint of violet. It is opulent with intense fruitiness, incredibly smooth and silky. The finish is long. Once opened, this port should be drunk within 2-3 days, which shouldn't be difficult. Because once you start, you won't want to stop... :)
- Grape varieties: a mixture of traditional Douro grape varieties , including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca
- Alcohol content: 19.5% vol.
- Acidity: 3.2 g/l
- pH value: 3.64
- Residual sweetness: 97 g/l
- Region: Porto DO
- Year: 2009
- Vinification: Traditional Port wine vinification, no destemming and foot pressing in traditional granite lagares. Pre-fermentation maceration for 2 days, followed by fermentation for 3 days. Addition of grape alcohol, brief maceration, and subsequent barrel-bottling. Bottling in June 2013.
